Welcome back to “How to become a pro (DF’s) keycap collector?” series. Before going to today’s topic, let’s review some information we’ve provided in the previous blog.

Q: What is an artisan keycap made from? Resin / Gold / Silver
A: Resin.

Q: How many profiles do we use to make keycaps? 3 / 4 / 5
A: 3: SA, OEM, Cherry.

Q: What is our own profile called? DOM / DOP / OVAL
A: DOM, of course.

Well done, my friend! Back to the topic of today, we want to show you how to protect our “gold” in the right way.



  • Ambering is one of the most famous fears for people who enjoy collecting keycap. No one wants their stuff to suddenly change from clear crystal to yellow after a few using days, but we also don’t want to see our babies kept in a box (C’mon, you’re really gonna let them stay quietly in it?). All you have to do is keep them out of the sun’s reach – which means direct sunlight.


*Left to right – 4 Hours vs 9 Month After Expose to Sunlight
(X mark is the resin we currently use) – Image by polymerclayjourney


REMEMBER: Whatever power The Sun has, it doesn’t go well with our keycap.

  • How about products that don’t have the resin cover like Albert XI? Have you ever thought about your sweat that can wash out our paint? One word: HARD!. Although the keycap is all painted, we don’t forget to cover it with a high-standard coating layer to keep the paint last extremely long. And we believe that it won’t peel unless you wanna try to “fire proves gold” literally.

But, what if its color is truly faded (without any damage)?
Contact us,
we offer high-class maintenance service better than your car’s for free.



  • Our hearts skip a beat when mentioning this issue (Ouch!). The priority action after you open the box and look at our product with full-of-love eyes is reading the “User Manual” and reading the “User Manual” again and reading the “User Manual” again-again (Important thing must be stated three times); then you have 80% to not break your stem and your soul at the same time.
  • Next is about the switches you’re going to mount. Some switches have a different shape than others. So before you want to mount it, make sure you know your switches well. Or you could ask us, or Google it, both are fine.
  • The final thing you need to know is nothing but your luck. Even if you prepare carefully, s**t happens sometimes! Well… Sorry to hear that, heheh.


Stem Crack in accident – Image by



  • We’ve received a lot of queries about our stem too big for your switch. Well … people say “bigger is better” but seems like it can’t apply to this case. One of the most common ways to fix this is by using the key puller tool, but wait, don’t do this, your stem will definitely break if you use the bad quality tools. There are three ways we could recommend you to do:
  • The easiest way: use a small piece of nylon or paper and put on the switch then mount your keycap on both of them. This method can solve the problem without touching the structure of the keycap.
  • The hardest way: Dip our keycap in hot water in 2-5 mins, then gently squeeze the stem with your fingers (keep in mind: GENTLY!), or it will be the last time you see your keycap.
  • The most costly way: Change the whole switches or keyboard. Find the one that can fit our stem to use.


No matter how you view the keycap, you can’t deny the fact that they are just some pieces of handmade plastic. And things that are related to both “handmade” & “plastics” aren’t 100% perfect; there’s always a low rate of flaw keycaps pass our QC unintentionally. If you receive that type of keycaps (or any problems above), please contact us immediately, your Dwarf-fellas will replace you with a new one with no additional cost (and an apology for bad experience as well).


That’s enough for today’s article. In summary, knowing the problem and knowing who to call is the best way to keep your stuff always bright as first sight. Until next time!